Showing posts with label Brazil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Brazil. Show all posts

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Adventures in Couchsurfing

Philippine Daily Inquirer
First Posted 04:31:00 12/14/2008

It’s a novel experience and a leap of faith. To enjoy Couchsurfing, one must be open-minded, willing to trust people, and must not be solely motivated by the prospect of free board and lodging

EVERYTHING started through a chance meeting. It was a cold January morning in Banaue. I was dozing off in a jeepney en route to Sagada when I noticed that half of the Caucasian couple across from me was now inches away, introducing herself to my friends. That stranger’s unexpected friendliness on that bumpy ride set in motion something I have been decidedly enthusiastic about for over a year now—Couchsurfing.

Our new friends Jean Philippe and Caroline, as it turned out, were Swiss backpackers on the final leg of their round-the-world eight-month journey ("RTW,” in Lonely Planet speak). Having hit it off with them, we shared two days of spelunking and hiking. At night we talked about past and future travels over some local rum (strawberry lambanog). My friends and I, all twenty-something girls afflicted with wanderlust, told them we wanted to go to places we had never been to. In turn, Jean Philippe and Caroline regaled us with their South American adventures in Couchsurfing (CS), a yet-unknown activity to us.

Caroline recounted how they were hosted by people in Chile and Brazil through the non-profit online network of the same name. For them, it was a fun and more inexpensive way of getting to know a place through its locals.

Flash forward to this year: I now consider myself somewhat of a CS veteran. I joined the network a few weeks after I heard about it, intrigued at the thought of “surfing” someone else’s couch. After initial apprehensions, I was reassured by the sheer volume of positive feedback and the sensible advice on safety. I plunged into my first CS encounter quite randomly: a South Korea-based American teacher, Melissa, e-mailed me and asked if she could stay with me for a couple of days. Although initially wary, I checked out her profile (members must have one to be able to contact other Couchsurfers), and saw that Couchsurfers from different countries had left good feedback about her as a friend and as a guest. A few days later I picked her up at the airport, brought her to Saguijo (to watch a “rockin’ show,” as she described it), and showed her around Intramuros. After a few days she had to catch a plane to Boracay and on our last lunch together, we exchanged tokens. She gave me a necklace from Kenya and I gave her a book by an author she was eager to read.

Over the next several months after my first hosting stint, I had more positive CS experiences. I went to a couple of parties by the active CS Manila group. Sometimes I would host people for a few days (no more than two guests as my profile states).When it wasn’t a good time for me to host, I would opt to meet visiting Couchsurfers for dinner or drinks (the network has a “meet for coffee or drinks” option; members are not required to host people in their homes).

I relished playing both host and tour guide. It reawakened my sense of nationalism and challenged me to brush up on Filipino history and culture. Once, a guest asked me the exact year when Spain ceded the country to the US, and I was stumped. Suffice to say that from then on I’ve been trying to be more reliable when it comes to dishing out Pinoy facts and figures.

I’ve met such interesting Couchsurfers that if I could have all of them over for dinner, my guests would include a vinyl record-loving French photographer, a German theater actor eager to educate children in Africa, and a young American retiree (only 40-plus years old), who was passionate about scuba diving in Philippine waters. The cultural exchange has been more interesting than any of the guided tours my family has taken in Asia and Europe. Aside from the lively discussions on politics and religion, I learned that the Danish ride a bicycle everywhere, even when they go clubbing at night (they also invented the chat program Skype). I heard about the crazy “free parties” Parisian college students used to hold on empty fields. And I was pleasantly surprised to find out that two young German Couchsurfers I recently met chose to take their one-year internship in a little-known Eastern Samar town so they could help out a small community.

with fellow Couchsurfers in Brazil

No Couchsurfer can come full circle without surfing someone’s couch. A few months ago, I did exactly that. I traveled to South America with three of my equally gung-ho friends, excited to be traveling for the first time as Couchsurfers. Our first stop, Brazil, was an absolute delight—thanks in part to our CS hosts. Rio De Janeiro natives Patricia and her brother Marcos (we fondly called him “Markinho” or little Marcos) showed us around their beautiful city and treated us to where the locals had their feijoada (stew of black beans) and guarana juice (a soda made from tropical berry). We watched a wild and loud soccer game with a dozen Couchsurfers, who taught us their team’s cheer and made sure we didn’t get lost in the huge Maracana Stadium. Another host, Rosangela, welcomed us to her apartment along with her gracious mom who didn’t speak a word of English, but cheerfully gave us shots of cachaça (an alcoholic drink from sugar cane) to wash down the meals she had prepared for us. We went out in Lapa and Copacabana along with local Couchsurfers who were naturally great dance instructors. Another lovely host, Maira, brought us to the beach, patiently taught me how to dance the forro (a northeastern Brazilian dance), and introduced my palate to the açai berry. She and her friends showed a sincere interest in where we come from to boot. It was amusing to see them go to Google Earth just so I could show them exactly what part of the world I call home.

Our excellent CS adventure extended into chilly Argentina, where we hung out with CS friends and flatmates Camila and Elisabet. Camila, a hotel manager, cooked dinner for us and marveled at how a lot of Filipino words were rooted in Spanish. Elisabet, a Swedish journalist, entertained us with tales of her enviable six-month stay in the country. They brought us to a milonga, where the locals dance the seductive tango. We had traditional churros con chocolate too, plus an evening at the theater to watch a hip improvisational percussion show.

You can say I fell in love with the South American cities we visited largely because of the people we met through CS. Our new friends helped us with everything imaginable. On our second day in Rio De Janeiro we were unable to change our dollars into the local currency. Markinho generously loaned us his school allowance for the day so we could go around and see Ipanema beach. We got to sightsee, explore the nightlife, try homemade local dishes and practice our Spanish and Portuguese with our fellow CSers, something guidebooks and guided tours can’t offer.

It’s a leap of faith, this Couchsurfing thing. You have to be open-minded and edge out that cynic in you that finds it hard to trust people in general. There have also been notable accounts of some CS members receiving negative references. On one Couchsurfer’s profile, one female member wrote that he tried to hit on her while she was visiting. A Filipina member, on the other hand, reported that one CS guest was unbelievably demanding during her stay in her home. Safety too cannot be guaranteed a hundred percent. But as CS member Daniel told his skeptical parents, no one is going to fly a thousand miles just to steal your TV.

full-fledged Couchsurfers

As with any novel experience, just be extra careful, read the site’s introductory tips, and have your wits about you. Follow your instinct when judging someone’s trustworthiness online or in person. It is a must as well that you are not primarily motivated by having free lodging and food. You must have a genuine desire to see a travel spot’s charms through local eyes. Now that’s the stuff of many a priceless CS story.


* my first time to post in regular, non-ee cummings caps ;p

Saturday, July 19, 2008

olodum!


Salvador, BRASIL -- Olodum: world-renowned Afro-Brazilian cultural group from Salvador da Bahia, known for developing “samba-reggae” and for its active participation in carnaval each year. I was curious to see Olodum's drum corps (they've performed with Michael Jackson and Paul Simon and have worked with Spike Lee) so Marcos and I hit the streets of Pelourinho one rainy Sunday night to catch their first ensaio for the winter season.

For 20 reais, we witnessed powerful, heart-thumping, non-stop drum beating that accompanied the vocals of some of Salvador's most popular artists. The place was packed with both tourists and locals alike, all dancing to the intense and infectious rhythm. Wild! I'd never experienced so much energy in one show.

I think I'll pick up an Olodum CD at the mall so i can pack some of that rhythm and energy into my suitcase before I head home to Manila.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

off to niterói

Niterói , BRASIL -- back in june (has it been that long ago?) we spent half a day getting to and from ipanema to the island of niterói by cab, bus and ferry. the oscar niemeyer museum (the MAC) was pretty cool but we were just so pressed for time that it was about all we saw on the island. marcelo our airport transfer guy was right: the exhibits can be pretty disappointing; it's the architecture that you really admire.

take a look at the kindergarten class that was at the museum that day. ang cute.



space-age museum


he wanted his photo taken with us


and we wanted a photo with these adorable little crianças


the only photo i got to take inside. shhh.

Friday, July 4, 2008

capoeira!

Salvador , BRASIL -- bahia is the birthplace of capoeira so we can't not post on that now can we? we weren't able to catch the masters at pelourinho on video so for now here's master marcos vinicius and top pupil jeetas (this was how we would start our day: waking up in a condo overlooking the ocean, to the sound of afro-brazil beats and a half-naked bahiano getting our coffee ready...such was the life we had)

manay, get your namorado to show us some serious capoeirista moves!



putting an end to saudades

Salvador, BRASIL -- On June 5, after a week in Rio de Janeiro, I eagerly hopped on the plane to Salvador de Bahia with Risa, Justine and Ditas. I was anxious to see Marcos after our three-month (endless) exchange of muitas saudades (missing with a heartache) over Skype. After retrieving my suitcase at the Salvador airport, I hurriedly made my way to the exit. No sight of Marcos. Risa: “I'm sure he'll be here soon.”


And so he was. I saw Marcos burst through the glass doors and run to me with a bouquet of flowers. And then the cinematic embrace. (Photos courtesy of Ditas). I can't remember the last time I felt that kind of high. When I passed the bar exams probably.

The girls and I spent five days in lovely Bahia before heading to Lima. More on that next time.

Now, after two weeks of near-arctic weather in Peru and Argentina, I'm back in Salvador. It's good to feel the sun on my skin again.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

brazil in the baggage

Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA -- marcos once explained to our manay jan what the word saudades meant. it´s a special kind of missing, when you miss something or someone so bad that your heart aches. i think i feel that way about feijao com farofa. that´s black beans with traditional brazilian farina (flour). i´m pretty sure i´ll be craving for that when i get home.

right now i´m at the ezeiza airport thankful that i got to extend my stay in rio but wishing i had more time there. my last night in rio was spent at a laranjeiras flat perched on a hill. my friends and i listened to joao gilberto and ravi shankar while drinking wine and laughing at this.

my carioca friend maira says we´re the same because we both have espiritu de gorda. a fat spirit. this, after she witnessed me order pizza and grape juice from a madureira food stall just an hour after i had wolfed down a plate full of feijao and a mini chocolate fondue.

beijao to all the brasileiros who gave our fat little spirits a lot of room to play! all you people did was make us eat, dance, sing, and eat some more. the shame, the shame. piscar, piscar (wink, wink).

Friday, June 27, 2008

tempos felizes


our little festa at the corcovado tram ride


maira and our leblon chef making pasta a la jeetas


Ipanema, BRASIL -- happy times above.
it´s looking like it will be time for me to leave cidade maravilhosa tomorrow. if lan airlines would just cooperate i can spend another weekend here.
i am, again, waiting for my galera to finish their to-do lists. i´m watching the sound of music later with my friend and his folks. i´m not sure if it will be in english. como se diz "how do you solve a problem like maria" em portugues?

some replies:

jan: i miss you, marcos, and the lovely people of salvador. i was at centro again today and i found acaraje from a vendor who was an honest-to-goodness bahiana...wish i could have more over there. saudades!

sparklemind: that´s not emo yet. watch out.

jushtine: haven´t gotten any text messages from you or anyone back home (except for a spammer offering me a car loan)... attempting to apply that lovely italian word. here´s to building things that last!

Thursday, June 26, 2008

constant rain

Rio de Janeiro, BRASIL -- it´s wednesday night and i´m alone at a cafe in leblon reading that elizabeth gilbert book jushtine and jeetas kept throwing spoilers of back in peru. it´s so popular you can get a copy of it here in portuguese (comer rezar amor).


getting a bit lonely. i´m back here in rio for the second time in 4 weeks. i flew in from salvador de bahia last night without jan (hi manay & marcos). the terrible tandem left south america a week ago. right now i´m waiting for my friend to finish his errands. i called my other friend daniel to see if he wanted to hang out but he doesn´t get off from work ´til late.

this is just fine, though. i´d rather be lonely halfway across the world than back home. it´s easy to feel hidden here, away from things and people you´d rather not think of.

maybe it´s the constant rain.


* i´ll stop here before you all let out a collective aww which i might not appreciate ;p

Monday, June 23, 2008

i know i owe blog entries, but this picture is just too funny.....


Salvador, BRASIL ---
THE NIGHT THE VEGETARIANS GAVE IN......TO HAMON.
Let's slice the ham.
Let's bring home the ham.

Friday, June 13, 2008

futebol e vida!


the flamengo seal



pre-match with the couchsurfers

pati with the new flamengo fans

Maracana, BRASIL -- football is life! in brasil, anyway. and we had a thrilling first-hand encounter with brazilians´love affair with the sport. we watched a match between flamengo and fluminense, 2 of the top 4 clubs in the country. the electric vibe at the stadium was infectious. the drum beats, the huge car-sized bandeiras, and the passionate fans all made the match more memorable. we were on the flamenguista side and by rooting for that team we learned a slew of new portuguese cuss words (my sources were right: it's the flamenguistas who know how to have fun. you can liken their fan fever to our own ginebra pba fans).

the match also earned me a souvenir on my left thigh, a big purple bruise caused by an overly-excited english fan. when flamengo scored a goal on a penalty kick our side of the maracana stadium went crazy and his wildly waving arms caused me to land hard on my seat. the screen proclaimed: goool!

patricia offers this simple summary for soccer love: you can change your wife, you can change your sex, you can even change your country. but you can never change your soccer team. to do that would make you a traitor to all that brazilians hold dear. 'til the next crazy futebol game!

* flamengo won, 1-0. we went home a happy bunch.

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Corcovado





Rio de Janeiro, BRASIL--On our second day in Brasil, we paid a visit to Cristo Redentor in Corcovado. Since we had in our previous travels caught the sunrise in Angkor Wat, we thought it would be perfect to catch the sunrise overlooking this marvelous city. Tip: the first tram up the mountain only starts at 8.30am. Whilst killing time we went on a hunt for some food. One of the locals pointed us to Princesa Supermercado where wonders of all wonders, it was also still closed. Sleep deprived and cold we were in no mood to wait until an elderly Carioca came up to us just to tell us we were such garotas lindas (pretty girls). Suddenly, the morning didn´t look so bad. After some pao de queijo (post about this to follow) and cafe with leite (but separa por favor), we trooped back to the tram station to make our way up to Cristo. The first time I looked up at Cristo, I felt a rush to my head and realised...oh my god, this statue is big. Second thought: I promise to be good, really. Once we were done gazing up (way way up) at the Cristo, we busied ourselves admiring the view of the city. Perched on top of a mountain, we could make out the marina, the race track, the famous Pao de Azucar and Maracana (post on this to follow).
Taxi fare from Ipanema to Corcovado: 15-20 reais
Tram fare to the top of Corcovado: 36 reais

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

oi!

Ipanema, BRASIL -- the terrible tandem of justine & ditas finally made it to south america. they weren´t all bright & cheery when they got here, thanks to their missing luggage (courtesy of american airlines). plus we welcomed them to our terrasse hostel room, which deets proclaimed as our nice "walk-in closet" (had a shared bathroom for the first time and it wasn´t so bad). we brought them to corcovado to see cristo redentor and partied at house, this bar in leblon.

i´m a bit frustrated as the pc i´m using right now is ancient and i can´t find the usb port. so no photos for now.

i forgot to post about our first time in ipanema. jan and i were a few blocks from the beach when she gasped all of a sudden. in front of us were these two dudes walking, like regular pedestrians. except that dude number 1 was wearing a tee and... skimpy red speedos. imagine seeing that while you´re walking outside greenbelt. and then while we were outside the botanical gardens in tijuca we saw this guy walking in the opposite direction. shirtless and looking like a bronzed baywatch surfer extra. jan and i were in unison -- "temptation!" giselle, our new puerto rican friend, agreed. they´re everywhere.

will post soon about the football game we watched at maracana stadium. tchau for now!

Sunday, June 1, 2008

sextas-feiras em rio (thursday in rio)



Copacabana, BRASIL-- our first night out in o brasil! it was funk/"hipy-hop" night at clandestino bar.


after watching indiana jones (with portuguese subtitles) we headed to copacabana with cariocas rosangela, bianca and daniel. it was a rainy night at 17 degrees but inside the club the dj residentes "dropped it like it´s hot!"


we had our strongest caipirinha (with fresh strawberries) and it took us three hours to finish half a glass. daniel was careful not to drink too much lest he lose his english proficiency. rosangela, with non-alcoholic sprite in hand, had the best moves of the night. and bianca showed us some mean forro steps which we miserably attempted to copy.

on the way home the cristo redentor greeted us again, this time bathed in fog and city lights.


day 3 in rio. super-legal!

Thursday, May 29, 2008

cidade maravilhosa




Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro, BRASIL--"saúde!" says the cute brazilian shop clerk as i sneeze while walking past him. we´re in shopping tijuca, a mall near our host´s apartment. patricia, our couchsurfing host, says the expression means "bless you!" in portugues. so it´s not just a way to toast to good health, i´m finding out.

a few hours earlier i woke up with a jolt as the plane´s tires screeched on the pavement. i turned to jan and the first thing she said was "we´re here!" with a huge smile on her face. i was so out of it after an 18-hour flight. we were jetlagged coming from los angeles and we had a stopover in santiago, chile plus undisclosed stops at lima, peru and sao paolo, brazil. we only found out about the other stops when the pilot announced the whole route on the plane!

hasten was asking about first impressions when i texted her earlier today. we haven´t been around yet but i love how we´re in a city surrounded by mountains, a forest, and beaches.

also, the locals we´ve met thus far are just great. marcelo, the driver who picked us up at the airport, was also an excellent tour guide. he pointed out some landmarks like the maracana soccer stadium and told us not to worry about dengue fever as it hadn´t been raining for 18 days. quite a character, that guy. he´s not sure if he´s really brazilian as he dislikes soccer and the samba.

i´m writing this from marcos´ laptop. that´s marcos, patricia´s sister. not jan´s namorado ;)
it´s almost 2am and i have to sleep soon. we´re off to parque national da tijuca in the morning.
later!


* photo of cristo redentor taken from here. will post our own photos soon!


Thursday, May 15, 2008

me, prepare for brazil?


Manila, PH -- joy, i am an obedient girl so i'm posting my list.

1. got immunization shots (hepa a, typhoid, flu). bawal magkasakit! tomorrow i'm getting yellow fever shots with manay jan. apparently you can only get these in manila at the bureau of quarantine. right, hasten? (we were teasing her that because of her tiny tidy island's requirements, she'll be the only one getting the shots & falling in line with livestock & such. look who has to go now.)

2. been somewhat faithful to my brazilian diet. brazilian diet: because i need money for brazil i can't go shopping or have lunch out! hopefully next year i'll be on a turkish diet. wink, wink.

3. looking for a good 55-liter up backpack. my sister the mountaineer is using hers daw. sigh. i don't want to blow $300 on something i can't wear/take pictures with.

4. brushing up on my portuguese/spanish. i'm not doing great, though. today i learned how to ask for food in a restaurant: "�tiene comida vegetariana?" jan, if i can't remember how to conjugate i'll leave all the talking to you...unless i decide to bring my 'wicked spanish' phrasebook (and we all know how useful that will be).

5. couchsurfing! i've hosted several people here but crashing a relative stranger's house will be quite a plunge for me and the girls. the people who are hosting us are mostly from the north zone of rio de janeiro. i've got their contact details on my notebook & i'm excited to be a part of their homes for a few days. will post on how this goes.

lomo above of mutch & me: in the justine tradition of posting photos that bear no relevance to the text. by eazy of lomomanila.

Monday, April 28, 2008

Dengue fever alert

Online, World Wide Web -- Justine has an update on Brasil: there’s a huge dengue outbreak in Rio de Janeiro. It’s a worrying turn of events as we’ll be South Am-bound in 4 weeks. On YM conference, Dr. Deets explains to us non-doctors (Reese, Jan & Hasten/Justine) how to prepare for dengue before and when we’re there. Here’s the edited version of our little medical convo (suffice to say that we digress a lot, hence the need for some snipping):


Hasten: How long do these things last?

Deets: Uhmmm…years?

Hasten: 96 dead, 96 more suspected deaths. Crap.

Hasten: Bloody hell! Years?

Deets: Well, depends on their climate. The mosquitoes usually come out after the rainy season.

Jan: Now I’m really scared. Are there anti-dengue shots?

Hasten: I need to get yellow fever shots or else the Sing government won’t let me back in

Reese: That could turn out for the best.

Hasten: Reese is also setting up typhoid and hepatitis shots for me…Jan if you haven’t had these, let’s go together when I go home on the 17th.

Reese: Jan if Dr. Kitts is away can we ask Manay to do it?

Jan: I hear the hepa shots should’ve been taken months ago

Hasten: Better late than never?

Jan: Ok I’ll schedule it with my sister.

Hasten: Jan ask Manay if we can do yellow fever, typhoid, and hepa all together and how much please.

Reese: Deets how about malaria shots?

Hasten: The thought is making me queasy.

Jan: Surely teets! There’s anti-flu as well in case you’re interested

Reese: My dad got anti-cholera. Syrup lang.

Deets: For malaria you just drink the anti-malarial drug. For hepa you get a vaccine if your titers are low. There’s no anti-dengue.

Hasten: Titers??

Jan: I’m really scared about dengue. Seriously! Mosquitoes tend to gravitate towards me.

Hasten: I don’t think I want to go to Brasil if the outbreak is serious pa in June. S***t but our tickets are non-refundable. And so are my NY tix! So dengue, please go away!

Deets: Just put a lot of mosquito repellent.

Hasten: Seriously? With an outbreak that has killed 200 people?

Deets: We had more deaths than that during the outbreak in the Philippines, but it didn’t affect you, right? They don’t give you the demographics of those who died. They’re probably those with no access to medical care.

Jan: Ah ok. That’s comforting! Thanks, Deets. What precautions should we take besides Off Lotion?

Deets: Wear protection – pants, long-sleeved blouses.

Jan: I guess we won’t be getting a tan at Ipanema too often!

Deets: Maybe we can get a travel advisory, like where exactly in Rio are the outbreaks so we can avoid those places.

Hasten: Plus the Sing government is really strict. They may restrict travel to Brasil. And I don’t want to be quarantined when I get back!

*** end of medical talk***

So Dr. Deets, what are titers?

Sunday, September 23, 2007

BRASILIPINAS 2007

Manila, PH -- BRASILIPINAS 2007 MUSIC FESTIVAL
Mag:net Cafe, Bonifacio High Street
Sept 21 (Fri), 7:00pm onwards
Featuring Nyko Maca + Playground, Eileen Sison e Guarana, Aia & Zach of Imago, Aquarela, Brigada and The Company. Plus appearances by Escola Brasileira de Capoeira Philippines, Escola de Samba Manila, Futkal, & Planet Zips.

As much as I want to tell you about this night, I'll let Reese and Jan do the talking, otherwise Reese might not talk to me anymore ... LOL. ;) soooo .. please edit this entry as you please Reese.