and now our first guest blogger: cathy, who is just as stricken with wanderlustParis, FRANCE--Eve of Bastille Day- The fireworks colored the sky like a kaleidoscope at midnight, the dance of lights en sync with Eiffel's own sparkles. I watched it dreamily from the rooftop of my dinner host’s house, a moment broken by a French guy's remark, “Bastille street party is for ploucs...ah, peasants.” He meant “jologs”. He was my travel advisor that night-- the insider who knows the special cafés in Amsterdam, the piazzas I must not miss in Rome, and his haven in Paris that tourists haven't discovered yet-- so I tried to remember his tips as best as I could. This proved a bit difficult because his brown eyes were competing against Eiffel's glitter, and the rosé and vodka were brewing its own cocktail in my head. A woman seated at his left gave us a funny look, while around us the French were sharing an unfamiliar cigarette, discreetly keeping it from the Filipinos. After a while the laughter became hysterical, the snobs were already dancing on the table with flowers and feather boas... the alcohol was taking its toll on me...As the room was spinning, I wondered, Where was I? Hmm… tastefully dressed people, intrigue, disgust for ploucs, great food, wine I've never tasted before, summer vacations, those lights...ahh...Paris! But how did I end up here?
A month ago, I was in a cramped office sulking over the end of summer when my monitor popped with an invitation from my aunt in Paris. I and two other aunts were to spend the first two weeks of July with her and one week in Rome and Amsterdam. There could not have been a better time: sales greeted us in every corner, Parisians were migrating for their summer escapades, and the weather was cold-temperate.
My travel buddies often visited Paris; hence, the attractions no longer interest them. Thus, I often found myself exploring Paris alone, an experience I think a woman should try more than once. “I found myself in Paris,” said Julia Ormond's character, Sabrina. On my first trip though it's more like, “I found myself lost in Paris.” ☺ Kidding! One can never really get lost in Paris. You can walk on and on- in the sun, in the rain, along the Seine- and admire the century-old apartments and grand architecture, take a rest in a cozy café, ogle at passers-by who look like they just stepped out of a magazine, or throw a coin for the street performers. The city is so beautiful; it inspires poetry.
I took my time in the museums and gardens to pay a courtesy call to the Impressionists and other masters; enjoyed Berthillon ice cream, orange champagne at Fouquet, and Pierre Herme desert; spent a weekend in Landes (couldn't swim though, water's icy cold); applied the lessons in conversation at the dinner parties; and helped a few tourists. Given the benefits in this trip, i.e., comforts of home, local guide and friends, and knowledge of basic French language, I gathered the following which I hope will help you appreciate Paris as much as I did:
1.You can never be overdressed in Paris. They buy their grocery in Chanel, so step up! Arriving under-dressed or just being obese is a call for ostracism.
2.Don't fret; they have no strict rules in fashion. Most of them mix and match outfits but look like they did it on purpose.
3.Half-price sales come on the last weekend of June till end of July, mostly spring/summer clothes which you could wear in the Philippines. But on July 14, Bastille Day, there's an additional discount of 20%, the best day for shopping. Shop in the big department stores instead of the boutiques so you can accumulate receipts (must usually total €175) for a tourism tax deduction of 12% (on top of other discounts) which you can get in cash from the mall or the airport. On July 4, Americans get an additional discount of up to 20% from the malls. (There are outlet stores for those on a budget but it's outside Paris.) Parisians shop in the boutiques in the Rue des Saint-Pére area. (The stores in this street can also be found in Lafayette and Printemps where it is easier to get a detaxe.)
4.On the eve of Bastille Day, there's a street party, free concert and fireworks show in Paris. People from the provinces flock to Paris for that one night.
5.There are Parisians (French who live in Paris) and there are Parisians, those who live the life in Paris. The latter don't go to Bastille Day celebration; they flee to the French Riviera around that time of the year.
6.Nothing shocks the French except uncivilized behavior. So poise and manners count. Always be ready to use “pardon”, “bonjour”, “au revoir” and “merci”. They find it rude if you don't greet/reply with these. Despite their reputation, I have not encountered any rude French in my stay here.
7.Rosé is their summer wine, like pink champagne, which you can drink with any food, any time of day. Champagne in an 8oz bottle with a straw is the latest in Paris clubs. (The Baron is now the most chic club for locals: “very Parisian, no lines, crazy, crazy, crazy.’)
8.The French have a mandatory vacation of five weeks a year (minimum) and work is usually just 35 hours a week. According to a comparative study, Paris is among the top 3 ideal cities for a single woman in view of the quality of life it provides (no relation to chances of finding a partner but there are plenty of fish in the sea…thinking of moving already?).
9.You can cover the major attractions (Louvre, Eiffel, Museé d'Orsay, Notre Dame, palaces, Versailles, Champs Elysées) in 3 days by subway train or bus but you will have to rush. I doubt if you’ll enjoy Paris that way
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10.Don't forget to check out the Eiffel at night; it glitters every hour from 9pm (or is it 8pm?). You’ll have this fantastic view while having dinner at the trendy Cafe l'Homme at the Trocadero (reserve 2 days ahead).
11.Avoid the long lines in tourist places by getting a museum pass or reserved tickets.
12.Try to eat in the historic cafés and restaurants; they offer authentic French cuisine and usually have English-speaking waiters, e.g., Les Deux Magots brasserie in St. Germain, Grand Corona, Fouquet, etc.). Don't forget to tip 10 percent if there's no service charge. If you need a hearty meal on a budget, Chinese fastfood is the way to go, no tip necessary.
13.There's always at least one gorgeous guy in the train. Old folks, tourists and moms take the bus. (tough decision!)
14.Friday the 13th is a lucky day for the French that is why they flock to the lotto outlets.
15.You can split the payment of one bill in cash, credit card(s) or cheque(s).
to be continued...
